Text is the constraint
A line of text under about 45 characters reads well and over about 90 it does not. That limit, not the device width, is what decides a column's maximum, and it is the reason a max width belongs on the text.
Tap targets
A link that is a few pixels tall is hard to hit on a touch screen. Padding around the target grows it without changing the design, which is the fix rather than a different control.